Rare Breed Will Graze in Norwich; Land will support thriving farm to table livestock farm

John Hammond remembers the advice he received from his uncle: “If you are going to be a livestock farmer,” he said, “pick a breed that can use a little help. If you go with the popular breeds, you’ll just be another number, but if you work with a rare breed, you can really make a difference.” John Hammond listened. He raises Cleveland Bay and Suffolk draft horses and Devon cattle.

This spring, after calving season is complete, John Hammond’s herd of Devons will be moving to Norwich to graze pasturage owned by the Upper Valley Land Trust. Devon cattle came to the New World along with the Pilgrims. For centuries these small cows were appreciated for their hardiness and gentleness and known as “triple purpose” animals, providing milk, meat and draft work. Devons pulled covered wagons west. The seal of Vermont, designed in 1778, features a red Devon cow.

But by the mid 20^th century, Devons were not needed to supply power for farm activities and their popularity as milkers gave way to specialty breeds with higher production. Now the American Livestock Breeds Conservancy lists this rare breed as critically endangered.

The Upper Valley Land Trust owns the 350 acre Brookmead Conservation Area on Turnpike Road in Norwich. Most of the land is forested, with access to popular recreational trails. The open land was used by Vermont Technical College before it discontinued its programs several years ago. Since that time, UVLT has moved forward to protect soil and water resources, revegetate wetlands and manage the grassland resources.

 “We’re so pleased that our land can help sustain this rare and special breed of cattle, which is known for its suitability to land like ours,” said UVLT President Jeanie McIntyre. “We’ve known and worked with John Hammond for many years on his own farm and other conserved land he uses.” With only 15 breeders in New Hampshire and Vermont, John Hammond’s herd of approximately 20 cow-calf pairs is one of the larger herds.

John Hammond’s North Star Livery, in Cornish, NH was conserved with UVLT in 2013 as part of an initiative that protected more than 300 acres of farmland, Connecticut River frontage and wildlife habitat in the Balloch’s Crossing area of Cornish. John was involved with the Connecticut River joint commissions for years, serving on the Ascutney Region local subcommittee that developed corridor management recommendations. A farrier for 45 years, he’s been involved in farming, animal husbandry and natural resource stewardship all of his life.

Concurrent with the pasture lease to John Hammond, UVLT has selected Tinkhamtowne Farms, owned by Bret Ryan to manage its other meadows. “Bret Ryan is a lifelong Upper Valley resident who runs a strong and growing livestock farm raising beef, pork, goats, lamb and eggs,” said Jeanie McIntyre. An independently established business fully licensed to sell meat in both NH and VT, Tinkhamtowne Farms currently supplies area restaurants, retail establishments and well-known farmstands. Customers also can purchase meats direct at the farm.

In 2011, Bret Ryan purchased the former LaMountain Farm in Thetford, a portion of which was conserved in 1989. He started Tinkhamtowne Farms a few years later. Josh Swift, another lifelong Upper Valley resident, is farm manager. “What they’ve done with that farm is impressive” said Jason Berard, UVLT Vice President of Stewardship. “The former dairy land is now producing a steadily growing volume of local meats available for Upper Valley consumers. They are selling everything they can produce, using the home farm and land in Lyme too. There are four fulltime employees working for the farm so it is contributing to the Upper Valley economy that way as well.”

Tinkhamtowne Farms recently hired Bob Coyle, formerly co-owner of the popular Stella’s Restaurant in Lyme, to assist with sales and product placement. UVLT’s land will play a supporting role, says Jeanie McIntyre. “This really is farm to table. Tinkhamtowne Farms has got it working and is making a difference in many ways.”

UVLT’s Programs Director, Alison Marchione, who manages the food pantry garden at Brookmead is eager for the arrival of the Devons. "The activities that the two farm operations will bring to UVLT’s property are perfectly compatible with all of our other plans and activities,” she said. “I think this will enrich the experience of volunteers and just make it even more fun to be there.” UVLT is growing about an acre of produce at Brookmead this year, including indigenous crops grown in a new partnership with the Abenaki Land Link Program, a program begun by the Nulhegan Band of the Coosuk-Abenaki Nation. Sign up to volunteer at: www.uvlt.org/food-pantry-garden/.